Water-based or plastisol: How textile printing works and what to look for when buying

Wasserbasiert oder Plastisol: Wie Textildruck funktioniert und worauf du beim Kauf achten kannst

In textile printing, there are two fundamentally different ink systems: water-based inks and plastisol. Plastisol is a PVC-based paste that usually contains plasticizers and sits as a layer on the fabric. Water-based inks, on the other hand, penetrate the fibers and feel soft. At GREEN SHIRTS, we print with water-based inks.

What distinguishes plastisol and water-based inks

Plastisol cures into a film on the fabric as it dries. This results in rich, opaque colors, but also a thicker, rubbery feel, especially with large designs. Because the ink sits on the fabric, a large-area plastisol print is less breathable than the fabric itself.

Water-based inks bond with the fibers. The print feels soft and becomes part of the fabric. With proper care, it withstands many washes.

How we finish products at GREEN SHIRTS

Depending on the design and order quantity, we use three methods in Germany. You can find details on our Printing Methods page.

  • Screen printing – with water-based inks for rich, brilliant colors and sharp details, especially for larger orders of 40 pieces or more.
  • Digital printing (DTG, Direct-to-Garment) – the ink is printed directly onto the fibers without a film. Good for gradients, fine details, photographic designs, and one-off items.
  • Embroidery – GOTS-certified, for logos and textured designs. Embroidery requires no printing ink at all.

What to look for when buying

  • Feel: A water-based print feels soft, while a plastisol print is noticeably like a layer on the fabric.
  • Specific information: "water-based printing inks", "PVC-free" or "phthalate-free" in the product description are verifiable criteria – much more meaningful than a general "environmentally friendly printed".
  • Certifications: GOTS also regulates which dyes and auxiliary substances are allowed when dyeing and printing certified textiles. OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 tests the finished garment, including the print, for harmful substances. Which certification applies is indicated on the respective item.
  • Place of finishing: If it states where the item was printed or embroidered, you can trace where your shirt comes from.

Frequently asked questions

Does a water-based print last as long as plastisol? With professional processing and proper care, a water-based print also remains colorfast over many washes. It is best to wash printed shirts inside out and at a low temperature.

Are all water-based prints the same? No. How good a print looks and lasts also depends on the fabric, pre-treatment, and drying.

When is embroidery the better choice? For logos and smaller designs with a high-quality, three-dimensional look, for example on polo shirts, caps, or workwear.

Where we get this information

The information about our own methods comes from our Printing Methods page. The general information about plastisol and water-based inks is based on expert knowledge of textile finishing as well as the criteria of GOTS and OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100.

Published on 14.09.2026 · revised on 22.10.2026 · Author: Niklas Astor, Founder of GREEN SHIRTS

Sources:

  • GREEN SHIRTS – Printing Methods
  • Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) – Criteria for dyeing and printing auxiliaries
  • OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 – Testing of textile products for harmful substances
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